The prospect of a food and wine tasting evening at Ottavio Bocca and Heidi Wilson’s Italian deli and cafe on Goodramgate resulted in a doubly oversubscribed event for SFNY. As such, the lucky half of us were warmly welcomed by the pair and the tantalising sight of a huge round of Parmigiano Reggiano from which we were offered shavings to accompany the evening’s first wine, a Colterenzio Pinot Bianco 2005. This wine, Otto told us, is the product of a co-operative – not normally a recommendation, as winemaking co-op members often keep the best grapes for themselves. In this case, careful control over both the way the grapes are grown and the winemaking process produces a very good wine.
The small café space cheerfully demanded that we introduce ourselves to members we recognised but were yet to meet. A long table centred in the courtyard presented a sensory feast, laden with cured meats, marinated vegetables, olives, provolone with rocket, and Otto’s own breads. We gathered around the table as Otto informally introduced the second and contrasting white, Funtanaliras Vermentino de Galhura 2005 from Sardinia. Again the space played a role as ‘hunter gatherers’ in the group returned with mini tasting plates for those seated on either side, fuelling discussion of tastes and preferences.
With regional map pinned to the wall and glass in hand, Otto then guided us expertly and personably through three red wines, the first a Fattoria delle Fornacelle Chianti Classico 2004. A Lillové Cannonau di Sardegna 2004 followed, but I cannot at this point extract my own experience from the tale because it was the next wine, a Taurino Salice Salentino Riserva 2001 that was to me sublime with the cheese selection that now took pride of place on the table.
Gorgonzola Dolce, Testu di Barolo (coated in grape must from the wine making process), Fontina, Bricat (a goat cheese) and Rebruchon (an Italian equivalent of Reblochon, made in the neighbouring area of France) were among the cheeses delightfully teamed with honey-soaked almonds, and it was a heartening prospect that this might all be nearly recreated with a few purchases from the deli’s cheese counter. Already at this stage we were quite overwhelmed by the generous hospitality and consistently excellent wines and food. There was a collective gasp when Heidi then presented a mighty panettone partnered with the Sicilian Muscat Pellegrino Passito di Pantellaria 2005. Made to order espressos capped the superb evening and we took the chance to buy some memento wines on the way to the door.
Otto and Heidi’s efforts and hospitality on this evening were extraordinary and we are both privileged and grateful. Thanks too to Sarah Barber for her organisation and extra hands on the evening. In response to the demand for this event, we are hoping to repeat it early in the New Year with preference given to those who missed out.
Wendy Fountain & Laura Mason
Bottega delle Langhe
36 Goodramgate, York
Telephone: 01904 622584