In horizontal rain on Sunday, 3 September a stoic bunch of SFNY members and friends gathered at the family farm of member, Sarah Phillip, whose parents Robert and Wendy run Green Farm at Hellifield near Skipton. Since abandoning dairy farming for its poor profitability in 2005, the Phillips now have a 200 strong fold of Highland cattle and farm gate and postal sales of their quality beef are on the rise. We were to come away much the wiser on the rearing of Highlands and their qualities after a generous BBQ, salad and dessert buffet.
Led by Robert and godson, Tom, we made the first of four visits to cattle grazing in the area. High above Malham Cove, a group of twelve steers were grazing on rugged limestone pavement - one quarter of this 'pasture' consisting of exposed limestone. The limited number of cattle here is due to the Phillips' participation in the Limestone Country Project, managed by English Nature, which is seeking to restore the biodiversity of key pavements in the Yorkshire Dales National Park after centuries of over-grazing by sheep. Highlands are among the native breeds of cattle whose less selective grazing and foraging style minimises the impact on vegetation. Tom alerted us to examples of returning flora such as wild thyme and various ferns sheltered among the limestone crags.
A second group of heifers were coaxed into proximity further down the valley before we visited a third group on farmland previously belonging to Robert's parents. These 24-30 month old steers were soon to be sent to slaughter in Skipton before being hung for 3-4 weeks - in contrast to typical supermarket beef killed just days before sale. Robert explained that flavoursome 'real beef' should be deep in colour rather than the garish red to which shoppers are now accustomed. We learnt too, of the Highlands' ability to convert rough, natural feed into a quality beef yield.
Back at Green Farm the sun had revealed itself and the barbeque aromas set our stomachs rumbling. Here we met mighty Wallace the patriarch, now sire to 25 calves, and other cows and calves before assembling for lunch. Sarah and Wendy had prepared a stunning spread of salads and accompaniments for the steak, burgers and sausages we sampled - beef and marmalade and beef and mustard among the sausage flavours. Huge barbequed field mushrooms with melted blue stilton were also a hit. Had the 'first course' not been so utterly delicious, Wendy's desserts - made largely with ingredients from her own garden - would have been much more diminished.
We thank the Phillips heartily for their hospitality! Visits to Green Farm are welcomed (but kindly ring first on 01729 850217) and come prepared with a cold box.
Wendy Fountain
Find out more at http://www.hellifieldhighlandbeef.co.uk